Basic Sewing: How to read a pattern tutorial-PART 3

 

Steps:

· Baste: Can be used to hold pieces in place until garment has finishing seams. Longest stitch length on sewing machine or a long length stitch by hand.


· Seam: Regular length stitch to attach two or more pattern pieces together. Typical seam allowance is 5/8 inch, unless specified in pattern.

· Hem: Fabric folded twice and sewn to prevent edges from fraying to to give a clean, professional and finished look.

· Stay stitching: Regular-length stitch done on individual pattern pieces at points of great stress (ex: underarm, crotch). Adds extra strength and lengthens the life of the finished garment.

· Gather: Fabric is sewn using baste stitching and then pulled together to form fullness in finished garment. (Below: sleeve at shoulder and at hem near elbow)

· Pleat: Fabric folded over itself to allow for fit at fold (ex: waistline) and still have extra fabric at opposite end.

· Dart: Sewn folds in fabric to make garment fit over fuller parts of the body (ex: hips and bust)

Basic Sewing: How to read a pattern tutorial-PART 1

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Fabric:

· Selvage – Finished edge of fabric.

· Bias – Diagonal direction on fabric becomes vertical line on finished garment. Adds stretch and beautiful drape.

· Nap - Pattern pieces often require the “nap” to be in the same direction, or cut with the “right side facing. Paying attention to nap will avoid having “upside down” fabric in finished garment. *ex: directional prints, velvet.

· Interfacing: An iron-on or sew-on stiff fabric that adds weight and stiffness.

· Lining: Lightweight fabric that goes on the inside to hide stitching and can add weight.