Basic Sewing: How to read a pattern tutorial-PART 3

 

Steps:

· Baste: Can be used to hold pieces in place until garment has finishing seams. Longest stitch length on sewing machine or a long length stitch by hand.


· Seam: Regular length stitch to attach two or more pattern pieces together. Typical seam allowance is 5/8 inch, unless specified in pattern.

· Hem: Fabric folded twice and sewn to prevent edges from fraying to to give a clean, professional and finished look.

· Stay stitching: Regular-length stitch done on individual pattern pieces at points of great stress (ex: underarm, crotch). Adds extra strength and lengthens the life of the finished garment.

· Gather: Fabric is sewn using baste stitching and then pulled together to form fullness in finished garment. (Below: sleeve at shoulder and at hem near elbow)

· Pleat: Fabric folded over itself to allow for fit at fold (ex: waistline) and still have extra fabric at opposite end.

· Dart: Sewn folds in fabric to make garment fit over fuller parts of the body (ex: hips and bust)

Basic Sewing: How to read a pattern tutorial-PART 2

 

Pattern Instructions and Pieces:

Notions and Fabric to Buy: A list of types of fabrics that work with pattern. A list of notions needed (ex: zipper, elastic, lace, ribbon, etc.). A list of quantity of fabric (and lining and interfacing) based on body measurements

· Front and Back images – Shows a drawing of what each finished garment will look like from front (bigger images) and back (smaller images)

· Pattern pieces – images on instructions that explain which pieces will need to be cut from paper depending on which pattern you are doing (ex: which pieces go with style D)

· Cutting Layout – indicates recommended placement of pattern pieces on fabric when you’re ready to start cutting out the fabric.

· Cutting line – Different lines indicate cut for a different size (stated on the lines)

· Seam Line – Typically 5/8th inch from the cutting line, unless otherwise specified in pattern directions
· Hem Line – Fabric folded on itself (folded twice to enclose raw edge) at points where fabric end is not connected to another pattern piece (ex: ankle of pants, cuff on simple sleeve, bottom edge of skirt, etc.)
· Grain line – This line needs to be exactly parallel to the selvage

· Fold line – Indicates where fold of fabric needs to line up

· Notches – Triangles that you cut outside of pattern so that you can match up separate pieces when preparing to sew

· Dots – Points of interest that are explained in each pattern (ex: where to stop sewing for zipper opening, where to place corners of pocket piece, dart sewing start and stop, etc)

Basic Sewing: How to read a pattern tutorial-PART 1

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Fabric:

· Selvage – Finished edge of fabric.

· Bias – Diagonal direction on fabric becomes vertical line on finished garment. Adds stretch and beautiful drape.

· Nap - Pattern pieces often require the “nap” to be in the same direction, or cut with the “right side facing. Paying attention to nap will avoid having “upside down” fabric in finished garment. *ex: directional prints, velvet.

· Interfacing: An iron-on or sew-on stiff fabric that adds weight and stiffness.

· Lining: Lightweight fabric that goes on the inside to hide stitching and can add weight.